Sightseeing
You need not travel far in Bangkok to find the trappings of modern civilization giving way to historical treasures. The Grand Palace, a fantastic complex with gilded stupas (domelike shrines to Buddha), is a living monument where people go to pay homage to the Buddha and their king. The National Museum houses Thai art and artifacts from Neolithic times forward. Performances of traditional religious and court dances take place at the Thai Cultural Center, a polished modern venue. The Erawan Shrine offers a glimpse of the old rituals manifested in daily life.

Air-conditioned buses and taxis are convenient ways to tour Bangkok. But consider cruising the river and canals on a modest long-tail boat, or go for broke on the five-star yacht The Oriental Queen. If you're walking -- which may be the best way to experience Bangkok -- wear comfortable shoes and take a good map.

The Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew. The Grand Palace is the most famous structure in all of Thailand. Originally built for King Rama I in the late 18th century, it has evolved into a vast, golden city, a temple compound and a mecca for this country's predominantly Buddhist population. Wat Phra Kaew, the most important structure inside the walled compound, houses the Emerald Buddha. Carved from a single block of jade, this ancient, holy object rests on a magnificent altar and is said to be a protector of whoever possesses it. Over the past few hundred years, it has been the central focus of numerous wars.

A few rules for visiting the Grand Palace: no shorts or sleeveless shirts; no photography inside the building that houses the Emerald Buddha; women, do not touch the monks! Open daily, but occasionally closed for ceremonies and other occasions. Don't save it for your last day, or you may be disappointed (most people want to see it more than once). 8:30 am to 3:30 pm. Admission: 125 baht. Entrance is on Na Phra Lan Road, phone 222-0094 or 222-6889.

Wat Tri Mitr houses the famous 14th-century Golden Buddha. Primarily of gold, it weighs more than 10,000 pounds. It was discovered under an unremarkable cement veneer in 1954, where it had lain hidden for hundreds of years. Daily 9 am to 5 pm. Admission 10 baht. Traimit Road.

Wat Po. Next to the Grand Palace, this is one of Bangkok's oldest temples and famous for its numerous ceramic-tiled stupas and gold-plated reclining Buddha. (Check out the mother-of-pearl inlay on the soles of his feet!) Daily 8 am to 5 pm. Admission: 10 baht. Thye Wang and Sanam Chai Road, phone 222-0933.

Wat Sa Ket. Also known as the Golden Mount, this spellbinding temple is said to house some of the ashes of Buddha. Built in the late 18th century, it was the tallest building in Bangkok until the introduction of modern high rises. Even now, the temple offers one of the best views of the city. Daily 8 am to 5 pm. Admission: 10 baht. Between Boriphat Road and Lan Luand Road, across from the Democracy Monument.

Wat Benchamabophit. Splendid, symmetrical architecture and gold and lacquer decorations. Daily 9 am to 5 pm. Admission: 10 baht. Sri Ayutthaya Road, phone 281-2501.

Wat Suthat. Located a mile east of the Grand Palace, this temple from the mid 1800s is an interesting blend of Thai and Chinese architecture. It houses some lovely Buddhist relics and ornate murals. Daily 9 am to 5 pm. Admission: 10 baht. Tri Thong and Bamrung Muang Roads.

The Victory Monument. A towering monument to soldiers' victories throughout Thailand's history. Located near Lumphini Park, at the intersection of Phayathai and Phaholythin Roads, in the center of a huge traffic circle.

The Democracy Monument. This splendid Western-style monument (with an enormous fountain) is dedicated to Thailand's adoption of democracy in 1932. Located at a major traffic circle in a part of town dotted with art-deco towers. Ratchadamnern and Lan Luang Roads, Baan Lampoo, one mile/1.6 km east of the Chao Phraya River.

The City Pillar, a small temple that contains the foundation stone of the city, attracts many locals who believe the stone has the power to grant wishes. Open 24 hours daily. Free. Located between on Sanam Chai Road (between Chareon Krung Road and Bamrung Muang Road) on the east side of the Grand Palace.

Erawan Shrine. Next to the Grand Hyatt Hotel, it's a small, simple, open-air sanctuary containing a four-headed bronze Brahman sculpture, highly revered by Buddhists worldwide. Built by the hotel for good luck, the modest little shrine has become a Buddhist mecca. Because of miracles attributed to the goddess at this site, Buddhists from around the world come to make offerings and requests, usually in matters of love or in hopes of winning the lottery. The shrine is one of the best places to see traditional religious dances. Get up early to see the dancers commissioned by people who are making sincere offerings. Free. Open 24 hours. Corner of Ratchadamri and Ploenchit Roads across from Gaysorn Plaza.

The National Museum. This is the largest collection of Thai art and artifacts in the country, from Neolithic times to the present. Wednesday-Sunday 9 am to noon and 1 to 4 pm. Admission: 40 baht for foreigners, 20 baht for Thais. Next to the National Theater and Thammasat University, 4 Na Prathat Rd., phone 224-1333.

The National Gallery. Near the National Museum and not quite as impressive, this gallery exhibits contemporary and traditional works of art. Admission: 10 baht. Wednesday-Sunday 9 am to 4 pm. 4 Chao Fa Rd., phone 281-2224.

Vimanmek Mansion Museum. The world's largest teak house, built by King Rama V in the late 19th century as a summer palace. It has 100 rooms and is a fine tribute to Thai architecture and art. You can't walk around on your own. Instead there are free guided tours, in English, every half hour, starting at 9:30 am. At 2 pm there is a free demonstration of Thai dance in the foyer. Admission: 50 baht. Daily 9:30 am to 4 pm. Next to the Dusit Zoo, on Ratchasima Road, phone 281-1569.

The Jim Thompson House. Another fine example of Thai architecture, this one filled with rare art and antiques once owned by Jim Thompson, the U.S. citizen who revitalized the silk industry in Thailand. Since his puzzling disappearance in 1968, his former residence has become a popular tourist attraction. Admission: Adults, 100 baht; children, 40 baht. Open daily 9 am to 4 pm. 6 Soi Kaseman 2, Rama I Road, phone 215-0122.

The Shed of the Royal Barges. North of the Grand Palace, on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River, the Shed houses gilded vessels once used for war and currently used by the King for ceremonies of religious importance. Similar to ancient Viking boats but more ornate, these royal yachts are a spectacle even on land. Klong (canal) tours often stop there. Daily 8:30 am to 4:30 pm. Admission: 30 baht, but if you want to take pictures, it's an additional 100 baht for a permit. Khlong Bangkok Noi, phone 424-0004.

Lumphini Park. Bangkok's foremost park offers profuse exotic greenery to shade you from the afternoon heat. Jogging track and two lakes with rowboat rentals (40 baht per hour). Daily 5 am to 8 pm. Free. Rama IV Road.

Out toward the airport is Chatuchak Park. This huge expanse of landscaped grounds, with a jogging track and a large lake where you can rent rowboats (40 baht per hour), is a great place to visit before or after shopping at the Weekend Market. Daily 5 am to 9 pm. Free. Phahalyothin Road.

Sanam Luang. These large, oval, open grounds are best enjoyed in the evening. Aside from a ring of trees around its perimeter, the park offers little escape from the afternoon sun. Kite-flying and watching sunsets over the gilded Grand Palace are favorite activities. Across from the Grand Palace.

King Rama IX Royal Park. Set on 200 acres/80 hectares, this park was opened to commemorate the current king's 60th birthday. It offers botanical gardens and great spots for picnicking. Lying 15 mi/24 km outside the city center, it's a bit inconvenient but worth the drive if you have some extra time. Daily 6 am to 6 pm. Admission: 10 baht. Soi Udomsuk, Sukhumvit Soi 23.

Baan Thai - A Thai traditional village, spectacular floor show and superb restaurant all in one. At Baan Thai village, you will enjoy one of the most memorable experiences of your visit to Thailand as you savour the traditional Thai-style village life of the 4 main regions of Thailand. You can enjoy the floating market, travel by elephant or samlor (Tuk Tuk), watch monkeys harvesting coconuts and even experience a traditional wedding ceremony, phone 533-1152.

Dream World Amusement Park - the land of world-class happiness. You'll enjoy fun and excitement at its four lands of dreams includes dreamworld plaza, dream garden, fantasy land, and adventure land. Admission: Adults 120 baht, children 95 baht. Opening Daily Weekdays : 10.00 a.m. - 5.00 p.m., Weekends & Holidays : 10.00 a.m. - 7.00 p.m., phone 533-1152.

Magic Land. Some good rides and games for kids. Daily 10 am to 6 pm. Admission: Adults 60 baht, children 50 baht. On the north side of town, out toward the airport, 72 Phahloyothin Rd., phone 579-0806.

Samphran Elephant Grounds & Zoo. Set within landscaped gardens and ponds on the outskirts of Bangkok, this is the best place in Thailand to see elephants in action. Costumed actors and costumed and armored elephants depict historical battles of the 18th century. Daily shows feature everything from the reenactment of an 18th-century Thai battle with soldiers and armored elephants to circus-style antics and elephant-polo matches. Also see a crocodile show, a small zoo and an orchid farm. Shows start at 10 am weekdays, 12:45 pm on weekends. Daily 8 am to 6 pm. Admission: Adults 220 baht, children 120 baht. Petchkasem Road, near the Rose Garden, phone 284-1873.

Rose Garden. A beautifully landscaped resort with orchid and rose gardens, aviaries and a re-created Thai village. Offers a spectacular one-hour cultural show with all the Thai trimmings -- dance, martial arts, religious ceremonies and elephants. Open daily 8 am to 6 pm. Admission is 200 baht. 20 mi/32 km west of Bangkok. (A visit can often be arranged through hotels or tours.)

Crocodile Farm. Every taxi driver assumes that the crocodile farm is the one reason you came to Bangkok and will pester you to death about it. If you yearn to see crocodiles, the Crocodile Farm has more than 30,000 of them. Daily shows and lots of interesting exhibits. Open every day 7 am to 6 pm. Admission: 300 baht. Samut Prakarn, phone 387-1166.

The Snake Farm, near the city center, is great fun for kids and adults alike. Run by the Red Cross as a center for collecting venom (to make antitoxin), you can watch as handlers milk poison from cobras, black mambas and other fearsome snakes. Daily shows 10:30 am and 2 pm. Adults 30 baht, children free. Adjacent to the Red Cross Building, corner of Rama IV and Henri Dunant Roads, phone 252-0161-4.

Safari World. Twenty minutes outside of Bangkok, Safari World contains two smaller parks: Marine Park and Safari Park. Safari Park offers drive-through viewing of Asian and African animals as well as daily shows (at 9 am, 1 pm and 4 pm) featuring birds, orangutans and elephants. Marine Park has dolphins and sea lions. Daily 9 am to 5 pm. Admission to Safari World: 280 baht for adults, 180 baht for children. Admission to Marine Park: 240 baht. Admission to Safari Park: 160 baht plus 400 baht for a show. 99 Raminda 1 Road, Minburi, phone 518-1000, ext. 232.

Major Home Travel Agency, in the city center near the Indra Hotel, offers dependable sightseeing tours to the temples, museums, canals, river markets and all major tourist attractions. Average cost for half-day tour is 300-400 baht per person. 120/13 Rajprarop Rd., phone 250-1685.

Marvel Holidays is a dependable enterprise offering good local tours. Guides speak English and other languages. For a very small service fee, they can arrange train travel. Good prices. Talk to Sawat Napol, Managing Director. 58/4 Soi Damnoenklangtai, Ratchadamnoen Ave, phone 222-2695 or 225-6095, fax 225-6095.

Sea Tours, in Siam Center near the Inter-Continental Hotel, is a highly regarded local company with a long roster of one-day tours to major attractions. 300-500 baht per person for a half-day tour. Siam Center Bldg., 965 Rama I Rd., Suite 413-414, phone 251-4862.

World Travel Service specializes in early-morning boat tours to the floating markets. Leave the Oriental Hotel's pier at 7:40 am and return by noon. 450 baht a person. Reservations required. 48 Oriental Ave., phone 236-0400.

Personal Guide. Teera Jivarattanaporn is a reliable personal guide who can take you around town. Excellent English, has lived in the U.S. Phone: (mobile) (01)-355-6334, page 152 # 121854, fax 662-424-189.

Chao Phraya River and Canals. See another side of Bangkok by exploring its waterways. Small waterside markets and countless homes line the banks of these busy channels. Charter boats are plentiful. You can hire them independently or book them through reliable tour companies. (Prices vary dramatically, from 12 to 100 baht.) Check out the piers in front of the Sheraton Hotel. Other transportation choices are water taxis and long-tailed boats.

If you have the energy, Chinatown can be fun to visit, with its beautiful traditional Chinese temples, multitudes of shops and constant activity. This is one of the busiest parts of Bangkok: Many of the roads narrow to one lane and crisscross the canals, and there aren't many traffic lights, so be careful when crossing the street. For a quick walk-through, begin at the intersection of Pahurat and Ban Mo Roads, just south of Wat Po, and walk east until your feet get tired. Chances are you'll run out of steam before Chinatown runs out of streets.